Blog · 13 October 2026

Why isn't my NSW Christmas bush red? (And which one to buy before December)

Is your NSW Christmas bush still cream in October? That's normal. Why it turns red, why some never do, and which varieties to buy in Sydney before December.

NSW Christmas bush in cream flower in October, Como NSW
Photo: John Tann from Sydney, Australia, CC BY 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons.

Short answer: if your Christmas bush is covered in small cream flowers in October, nothing is wrong. The red comes later. The "red flowers" are really sepals, which grow and turn pink, then red, after the cream flowers are pollinated, and they peak around Christmas. If a plant never goes properly red, the usual reasons are too little sun or a seedling-grown plant that was always going to be pale. For next time, choose a named, cutting-grown variety such as 'Albery's Red' and plant it in sun.

How the red happens

NSW Christmas bush (Ceratopetalum gummiferum) works like a bougainvillea or poinsettia: the colour isn't the true flower.

  1. Late spring (now): clusters of small, cream, star-shaped flowers.
  2. After pollination: the petals drop and the sepals (the small leaf-like parts behind the petals) enlarge and turn pink, then red and papery.
  3. Early to mid summer: the display peaks, usually around Christmas. Each red "flower" holds a single seed (ANPSA).

So a bush that's white in October and early November is on schedule.

Why some never go properly red

1. It's a seedling

The Australian Native Plants Society says seedling-grown Christmas bush can be anything from very pale to deep red, which is why cutting-grown plants are preferred. If you inherited a big old bush that turns pinkish-green, it may simply be a pale seedling. No amount of care will make it deep red.

2. Not enough sun

How deep the colour gets depends on how much sun the sepals receive (Botany Brisbane). A bush in heavy shade, or one swallowed by a neighbouring tree, will colour weakly and mostly on its sunny side.

3. Dry weather while it colours

Regular watering helps give a good long display. Deep watering during a dry November and December helps most. My free watering natives guide covers how.

Which one to buy (Sydney prices, checked 12 Oct 2026)

VarietySizeWhy choose itPrice
'Albery's Red'Small, compact tree (Botany Brisbane). Nurseries quote anything from about 2 m to 3–5 mThe classic cut-flower variety. Cutting-grown, so the colour is reliable.Sydney's Plant Market: 140 mm $17 · 200 mm $35 · 300 mm $65 (only the 200 mm in stock when checked). The Australian Plant Shop: 140 mm $19.10 (sold out), 200 mm $47.30 (sale price)
'Johanna's Christmas'Dwarf, about 1.5 m (Botany Brisbane)Pots, courtyards, small front gardensAsk your local native nursery
The species (seedling-grown)Large shrub or small tree, rarely over 5 m in gardens (ANPSA)Cheapest and local, but the colour is a gambleCommunity nurseries sell tubestock for a few dollars, e.g. CEN on the Central Coast lists $3.50 (out of stock when checked)

Prices and stock change, so check before you go. Big-box store ranges vary by store. Wherever you buy, look for a named variety on the label rather than an unnamed "NSW Christmas bush".

When to buy. October and November are a good time to buy one in flower and see what you're getting.

Planting it in a North Shore garden

This is a local plant. On my local plant list it grows naturally in several North Shore plant communities, on sandstone and shale-influenced soils, including Sydney Turpentine-Ironbark Forest and Sandstone Gully Forest. You can check your own garden with the which plant community guide, and find companion plants in the native plant finder.

  • Sun: full sun to part shade. More sun, better colour.
  • Soil: well-drained.
  • Water: water deeply until established, and again in dry spells while it colours.
  • Mulch: only if the site needs it. Where it does, coarse mulch, 50–75 mm deep, kept clear of the trunk.

In a typical Killara or Pymble garden, I'd give it the sunniest well-drained spot in a bed, with room for a shrub that can reach about 5 m in a garden (ANPSA).

Pruning: cutting for Christmas is the prune

Cutting stems for the house at Christmas is the main prune. Nurseries recommend pruning soon after flowering to keep the plant compact. Cut to just above a leaf joint and shape lightly over January. Done each year, this keeps the plant bushy rather than tall and sparse.

With an overgrown old Christmas bush, I follow the general rule for most plants: never remove more than about a third at a time, ideally after flowering. If it needs more than that, I spread the work over a couple of seasons.

Planning a native garden

See native garden advice.

Sources

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